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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.